Starting my swap (suggestions)

[Steve]

Well here I go.... Bought a wrecked 97 Cobra for a donor and I pulled the engine and wiring today.
I'm planning to do the complete dash swap as well if its completely needed. I'd rather keep the factory Fox dash bit I'll do whatever it takes to get this done.

Questions: Do I need to do the full body wiring or can I get away with engine and dash wiring?

• any info would greatly be appreciated as this is my first swap like this
1997 Cobra to a 1993 GT

 

[ModFoxMustangs]

I would keep all the wiring just incase you can always sell it later...

 

[Speedtospare]

take everything, gas tank fuel line, fuse box, wiring, everything.

 

[Steve]

I have the Cobra completely stripped, just a shell left now. I'm just trying to figure out what all ill need to get it up and running. I don't want to change all the wiring and dash just yet.

 

[Bill]

There are several wiring diagrams on this site in another thread. If you don't want to do the dash swap, you don't have to. You can make everything work and keep your complete Fox interior.

 

[Steve]

My brother and I are both doing the mod swaps as of now. Since I've finally stripped my donor down to the shell I'm going to attempt to swap all the wiring and dash. I've been going throug a lot of other people's builds on here and they've been very helpful so far.
Quick question...is there a certain header people use? Are one better than others as far as shorty or LT headers??

 

[Speedtospare]

LT's are better but many of them make it a pain to do the clutch. You can use LT's designed for cobra's but you will have to move the tranny mount back and they are too close. If your running the T56 it will have to be moved regardless. I use stock manifolds and stock tranny mount but an offset cross member is required.

 

[Steve]

I removed the Cobra crossmember from the donor, I'm planning on cutting out the stock unit and welding in the Cobra unit. Hopefully this will give me the clearances needed for longtubes...I'm done dealing with stock manifolds and broken studs. I'm using a T-45

 

[Svt Fox]

I get your desire for long tubes. I've heard they are good for around 20-30hp at the tire. I do recommend you buy a flaming river steering shaft, for clearance if you go that route.

I get your reasons for not want running stock manifolds but, if you ever decide to do a turbo kit in the future, I highly recommend that you at least hang on to the stock manifolds, don't chuck them.

If I ever did a turbo kit, I would definitely use the stock manifolds. You can't get much more compact than the stock manifolds.

The manifolds will support 650-700 hp at the tires, all day long. They are maintenance free, and you don't have to take them off to do trans swaps. Using stock manifolds with a tubular k member frees up all kinds of room lol.

Personally, I chose manifolds after I already purchased long tubes due to all the foreseen and unforeseen headaches involved with installing them. haha!

I picked up a pair of never installed OEM cobra manifolds, which were virtually brand new for $150 shipped!

You can't really go wrong either way. It comes down to how much work and aggravation you are willing to endure for the overall pay off.

Is the juice worth the squeeze to you?

 

[Steve]

I get what you're saying about the headers. I think for now I'll stick with getting the car up and running first. I'm a long way from worrying about what headers I'll use, either way I will take your advise and save the stock units.

My biggest concern is wiring... I think I'm more in a debate with myself trying to figure out which way to go. Stock dash and figuring out where to go with it or just change it all out to the 98 Cobra dash and all wiring.
Can someone tell me what's entailed in retaining the stock dash and cluster with a mod motor swap? What are the problems I need to focus on if I keep it stock??

 

[Svt Fox]

Can someone tell me what's entailed in retaining the stock dash and cluster with a mod motor swap? What are the problems I need to focus on if I keep it stock??

There isn't much entailed in keeping the stock dash. The wiring is pretty straightforward. Once you look at the Fox wiring diagram next to the EECV diagram, you'll see what I mean.

I am running a 96 GT harness and EEC with a fox dash and gauge cluster.

 

[Kurt]

Can someone tell me what's entailed in retaining the stock dash and cluster with a mod motor swap? What are the problems I need to focus on if I keep it stock??

If your donor parts are from a 96-98, then there isn't a terrible amount to it. There seems to be the feeling about that the 96-98 engine computers where extensively integrated into the car. That's not the case. IMO they are way more stand alone then the EEC-iv's ever were. The early EEC-v's as integrated as you want it to be.

That being said, there is a myriad of ways to do it. And that is why there isn't any catch all write ups. The is no simple answer to "what is entailed in keeping the stock dash?"

However, there are very simple answers to very specific questions. Those can be answered by many people here.

For example:
Q:How do I make the factory tach work?
A:Wire the EDM tach output wire from the EEC-V to the green wire to your tach.

Qo I use the fox fuel pump relay or the SN-95 ccrm relay?
A:Either one you want. The EEC-V triggers the relay exactly the same way the EEC-IV does. So if you don't use the ccrm, just use the blue trigger wire to trigger the fox relay.

I'm sure you read the many discussions on PATS. Disabling or working around PATS is the one thing that is a must when keeping all of the fox components.

 

[Kurt]

Can someone tell me what's entailed in retaining the stock dash and cluster with a mod motor swap? What are the problems I need to focus on if I keep it stock??

If your donor parts are from a 96-98, then there isn't a terrible amount to it. There seems to be the feeling about that the 96-98 engine computers where extensively integrated into the car. That's not the case. IMO they are way more stand alone then the EEC-iv's ever were. The early EEC-v's as integrated as you want it to be.

That being said, there is a myriad of ways to do it. And that is why there isn't any catch all write ups. The is no simple answer to "what is entailed in keeping the stock dash?"

However, there are very simple answers to very specific questions. Those can be answered by many people here.

For example:
Q:How do I make the factory tach work?
A:Wire the EDM tach output wire from the EEC-V to the green wire to your tach.

Q;Should I use the fox fuel pump relay or the SN-95 ccrm relay?
A:Either one you want. The EEC-V triggers the relay exactly the same way the EEC-IV does. So if you don't use the ccrm, just use the blue trigger wire to trigger the fox relay.

I'm sure you read the many discussions on PATS. Disabling or working around PATS is the one thing that is a must when keeping all of the fox components.

 

[419forest]

I get your desire for long tubes. I've heard they are good for around 20-30hp at the tire. I do recommend you buy a flaming river steering shaft, for clearance if you go that route.

I get your reasons for not want running stock manifolds but, if you ever decide to do a turbo kit in the future, I highly recommend that you at least hang on to the stock manifolds, don't chuck them.

If I ever did a turbo kit, I would definitely use the stock manifolds. You can't get much more compact than the stock manifolds.

The manifolds will support 650-700 hp at the tires, all day long. They are maintenance free, and you don't have to take them off to do trans swaps. Using stock manifolds with a tubular k member frees up all kinds of room lol.

Personally, I chose manifolds after I already purchased long tubes due to all the foreseen and unforeseen headaches involved with installing them. haha!

I picked up a pair of never installed OEM cobra manifolds, which were virtually brand new for $150 shipped!

You can't really go wrong either way. It comes down to how much work and aggravation you are willing to endure for the overall pay off.

Is the juice worth the squeeze to you?

Very informative discussion about longtube headers and hp capabilities of the stock manifold. I just got my stock manifolds hot-coated. It's good to hear that they are good up to 700 rwhp.

 

[benstein IBC]

There are several wiring diagrams on this site in another thread. If you don't want to do the dash swap, you don't have to. You can make everything work and keep your complete Fox interior.

i am stuck here i kept the same dash from the fox and doing a 96 cobra motor i dont know what harness to use ive heard to use the foxbody one in the interior section with the starter solenoid from the fox and some say to use the whole sn harness? any suggestions as to what to do?