• Hello there guest and Welcome to Modular Fox Mustangs home of the 2V, 3V, 4V, Coyote Modular Mustang Conversion Information Website!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

My First 4.6 Fox Swap, any pointers?

el_87fox_negro

Member
Donator
OK I'll try to be careful. :) I've always loved foxbodies and I love the way 4.6 sounds... I'm excited I been slowly but surely making my switch over to ford.
 

FuturaGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
In addition to the work you have to do on the ECU harness, you also have to consider the starter and charging systems which are on different harnesses. Another member on this board, Bob (Rusqtsi), sent me a sketch which I marked up and call "Wiring3". I've also attached some pages from the EVTM showing the starter and charging systems.

A big difference between the Modular engine and the earlier 5.0's is the starter itself. The Mod engine has the starter solenoid integral with the starter, like GM cars, while the Foxes had the starter solenoid mounted on the inner fender, near the battery. You have to use the Modular starter harness and you can hook it up several different ways, any of which will work. You can connect the heavy starter cable to the cold side of the fender-mounted solenoid and put a short jumper wire from the large terminal on the starter to the small terminal on the starter-mounted solenoid. This is what is shown on the "Wiring3" sketch and is how people have been doing it for years when putting GM engines in Fords. You can also put the heavy starter cable on the hot (battery) side of the fender-mounted solenoid, disconnect the red/blue stripe wire from the fender-mounted solenoid, and connect it to the single pin connector (C112) with the white/red stripe wire on the starter harness.

There is a heavy wire coming off the alternator and this has to be connected to the hot side of the fender-mounted solenoid. The smaller wire off the alternator goes back to the dashboard and operates the discharge light if the alternator isn't charging. Also, there is a difference between the Cobra and GT alternators. The Cobra only has the two wires mentioned, and the GT has a third wire that goes to another terminal on the alternator. On the Cobra, that wire is integral.

Hope all this helps.
 

Attachments

  • Wiring3.pdf
    111.3 KB · Views: 94
  • Starter_System.pdf
    82.8 KB · Views: 73
  • Charging_1.pdf
    157.8 KB · Views: 75
  • Charging_2.pdf
    131.8 KB · Views: 69
Last edited:

FuturaGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
You can use either rack
You can use either rack BUT.....if you use the SN95 suspension arms and rack, you need the longer tie rods that come with the SN95 rack. You also have to adapt the steering column because the Foxes have a splined input shaft and the SN95 has two flats on a 60 degree angle. The fittings on the SN95 rack are all metric, as is the power steering pump and the hydroboost power brake. If you go the other way and use the Fox rack with the SN95 suspension arms, you have to change the tie rods to the longer SN95 parts. I don't know for sure but the Fox rack may have U.S threads on the fittings and if so, you'll need custom hoses or adapters to match the rack with the power steering pump.
 
Last edited:

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
If you use the Fox steering column and do up grade to sn rack flaming rivers used to sell an adapter at one time
 

FuturaGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
If Flaming River doesn't carry the adapters anymore, you can get what you need from Borgeson in Torrington, CT (www.borgeson.com). They're just up the road from me and I think I'm on a first-name basis with most of the staff. They make universal joints and have two that mate to the SN95 steering rack input shaft (one with a vibration damper and the other without) and both have a 16-tooth internal spline on the other end. They also make a universal with a double D on one end to match the early Fox steering column, and they make the externally splined shafts in different lengths to connect everything together.

If you go that route, you have to take a little care when assembling all the steering components. When I put mine together the rack wasn't centered and I was off by two teeth on the spline so I had different minimum turning radii from one side to the other. Had to slide the rack forward and reposition the splined shaft. The splines are very accurately made and won't go together unless they're aligned perfectly. The day I did this it was about 95 degrees and the humidity was even higher, I was lying on my back under the car, and the splines finally went together sometime around the 38th try. I went thru about 4 bottles of Gatorade and said a few words I wouldn't have used in front of my mother.
 
Last edited:

rusqtsi

Active Member
Rock, I see our diagram #3 made up here.. But it didnt work in my situation.. still trying other options like the one attached. This option did not work either.
 

Attachments

  • image1.JPG
    image1.JPG
    349.1 KB · Views: 81

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Still test fitting so don't hold me to it but I just adapted the Fox end onto sn shaft. if it works it will save 250.0020150128_171508.jpg
 
I recently just changed my computer set up so if your looking for a Detail Zone set up with a 2001 mach1 computer, with coils etc I have everything. Im running a 98 cobra motor in my 89 notch.
 
Last edited:

el_87fox_negro

Member
Donator
hi every one I'm in the middle of my swap I'm using a mark 8 engine no pinned the harness as an 03 gt is. I did this becouse I found a 03 main harness n computer. I also got the dash harness n fuse box.
Now my situation is that I don't get power to any of my coils. I checked all my wires n I have power or signal to all but the coils. Has anyone been through this before? I would really appreciate some advise.
 

FuturaGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Did you bypass the Passive Anti-Theft System? Another possibility is a loose connection. It happened to me once. I put together the big 44 pin connector between the engine and the ECU harness but forgot to tighten down the bolt in the center. While a voltmeter showed 12 volts at the coils, there wasn't enough current to power the coils and give a spark. That may not be your problem but it's something to check.
 

el_87fox_negro

Member
Donator
Well actually I didn't do anything to the computer... I have a friend that said it should still turn on with out the bbypass... Now another thing I plugged in the hp tunners but I was not able to bypass it so I ignored it... Do u know how I can do it so I can give it a try ???
 
Top