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Hydroboost Final Connection

419forest

Well-Known Member
I am going to tie the two ports on the distribution block to the bottom of the master cylinder for the hydroboost module.

There is a third brake line that comes from the driver's side front brake caliper. How do I tie this into the hydroboost setup? I only see two outlet ports on the bottom.

Pics are below.

Thanks,

Craig

photo 2.JPG

photo 1.JPG
 
thanks. I found another source which shows that I will need to tie the two front lines together by using a "tee"
 
Update? Car has been drivable for a year now.

It's not pretty (lines) as I used the fox lines and re-bent them as needed.

a9yzesy9.jpg

y3anepam.jpg
 

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Function beats looks in my opinion. Lol good deal. So you used fox lines and new edge block? Correct?


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Especially if you take the time to bend the lines, correctly. I regret not making it look nicer.
 
No biggy it's like a really hot girl with a big bush!! Can't see it so it won't hurt you!! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What is the point of the "coil" I always see in brake lines? It is required for something or will this work? P2181809.jpg
 
The coil/bend allows flexibility in the line. On the Fox chassis, there is a hinge effect at the firewall, making the distance between the bottom connection on the booster (mounted to the firewall) and the distribution block/pressure regulator (mounted to the front subframe assembly) change under cornering, acceleration, and braking.
 
I'm in the process of swapping the front end, rear end and hydroboost system off a 98GT donor car to my 89 Fox. I have done a little research and have ran across people saying not to use the proportioning valve off the donor car. It looks as if a couple of guys on here have. If you have, hows it worked for you thus far
 
The proportioning valve in combination with the rest of the braking system you are installing will give you factory feel brake performance.
 
Typically, leaks from fittings are caused by damaged flare or seat. If it is the flare, and as long as it isn't cracked, you might be able to fix is with a flaring jig. If not, you'll probably need to replace a section of the line. If it is the seat, you may end up replacing the valve. I have had some success with Teflon tape, but use it sparingly.
 
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