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Foxbody 4.6 Dohc Swap

Got the exhaust mocked up and clamped together gott take it back out carefullyand have it welded now, still have to put the tips on but man its gonna sound awesome. Gotta adjust clutch cable and she can move. I still need to put the steering bearing in before it actually hits the road lol. but atleast i can pull it in and out of the garage.
 
LOL yeah i was smiling from ear to ear. Its gonna sound awesome when the exhaust is all welded up. Bassani mid-lengths with BBK X-pipe with 40 series flowmasters. It has that sound makes you wanna jump back when you rev it up, I love the sound rumbles, down low and that classic high pitch flowmaster at the higher rev.
 
I have stock manifolds, BBK X-pipe with cats, flowmaster 2 chambers, 2.5" tail pipes and while it sounds good, I find it a little quiet and it muffles the lub-lub-lub of the mod motor. I am thinking about swapping in some Borla XR-1's or another straight through design.
 
I need some input here I pretty much got my car under wraps now i think, I thought about changing the color choice but im unsure. Im either gonna stay with Grabber blue or im gonna go with Bright Calypso Metallic. I have seen a couple of calypso cars around here, but i have never seen a grabber blue fox anywhere just on the net. Opinions please lol
 
Gonna do a rear brake job on the old gem tomorrow, gonna get new hardware, wheel cylinders, and new shoes. Yes i said shoes not pads lol. Wish me luck i hate messing with brakes seems like they always leak. But a mans gotta have brakes to drive a car lol.
 
Well the brake bleeding was UNsuccesful lol. Anyone know any tricks to get some brakes working on my car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
you may consider trying to bleed the master master cylinder at the lines.
fill the master cyl and have an assistant pump the brakes until the pedal comes up and is firm, while holding the brake pedal then crack each fitting one at a time at the master cyl line fittings to let the air out, then tighten that fitting and move on to the next fitting and do the same.
once all the lines are bled, then let the brake peadal up.
do this until all the air is gone from each line.
once all the air is gone from the m/cyl lines, do the same for each of the wheel cylinder/calipers, pump the brake pedal until the pedal becomes firm, open the bleeder, once the fluid looks clean and bubble free, move on to the next wheel.
i generally use 3/16 vynyl hose from ACE hardware as it is clear and you can see the fluid condition and any bubbles in it.
if you can't find an assistant, you can try gravity bleeding, by filling the m/cyl reservoir, and cracking a line bleeder to let the air out, this takes a while but it works, just keep the vynyl hose below the level of the master cyl so the fluid can escape.
however if you have a miti-vac transfer pump or hand operated pump, you can vacuum out each whl cyl or caliper.
 
When I completed my HB swap, after everything was mounted, all I did was bleed the brakes like you would normally bleed a stock fox.

Which proportioning valve are you using?
 
Man its been so long I don't remember but I think its the SN95 valve I give it another whirl when I get back home.
 
ponyboy89lx said:
Man its been so long I don't remember but I think its the SN95 valve I give it another whirl when I get back home.
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If you aren't already doing this, I use a piece of clear hose on the bleeders like 4whldisc mentioned, going into a 20oz. soda bottle with about a 1/2 of fluid in the bottom. .

Hope you get it sorted out! I want to see some videos!!
 
Today i went out and since i dont have any help i decided to mess with the sway bar. I was planning on running a SN95 sway bar but the problems was the bar was wider needed to be bent in and was gonna have to move the brackets under the frame rail, risk of tires rubbing, yada yada. So i dig out the old fox sway bar do a few measurments and decided to take the brackets from the SN95 sway bar and put them on the fox sway bar. BAM everything fit perferct back in the origanal locations, no cutting, no welding, nothing. Only thing is that the endlinks will need to be 2 inches shorter to compensate for the longer SN95 brackets. So anyone doing the swap just get the sway bar brackets from donor car and use the factory fox sway bar mount perfect NO mods what so ever.
 
ponyboy89lx said:
Today i went out and since i dont have any help i decided to mess with the sway bar. I was planning on running a SN95 sway bar but the problems was the bar was wider needed to be bent in and was gonna have to move the brackets under the frame rail, risk of tires rubbing, yada yada. So i dig out the old fox sway bar do a few measurments and decided to take the brackets from the SN95 sway bar and put them on the fox sway bar. BAM everything fit perferct back in the origanal locations, no cutting, no welding, nothing. Only thing is that the endlinks will need to be 2 inches shorter to compensate for the longer SN95 brackets. So anyone doing the swap just get the sway bar brackets from donor car and use the factory fox sway bar mount perfect NO mods what so ever.
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See if SN95 end links will work for ya!
 
ponyboy89lx said:
Might work hummm. Anyone got a measurment on the SN95 links????
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I am sure they will work even with factory suspension because they are factory dimensions. I put mine on and then proceeded to drive 250 miles the next day. I'd call them good.
 
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